A Palace on Wheels
An independent account by Vivien Devlin of her journey on the Belmond Royal Scotsman.
"The speed is so easy, and the train disturbs so little the scenes through which it takes us, that our heart becomes full of the placidity and stillness of the country." Robert Louis Stevenson
In our modern, pressurised world of time-watching and jet-setting, we need the chance to stop the clock for a while. Luxury travel means slow travel and the pleasure of a leisurely train journey. According to many travel writers from Stevenson to Theroux, the best way to experience a country is watching the landscape roll past the window of a railway carriage.
There is a wide nostalgic appeal for the tradition and elegance evoked by the golden age of steam trains. On a visit to Scotland, the best way to explore this land of lochs and mountains is to take a grand, glamorous tour on board the Royal Scotsman.
Combining old-fashioned Edwardian-style furnishings and service with every modern convenience, she is described by Sir Fitzroy McLean, diplomat, soldier and inspiration for James Bond, as "the most luxurious and prestigious train in the world."
A sense of anticipation begins several weeks before departure date. A fat envelope arrives in the post with the journey pack: gold-embossed boarding cards, luggage labels and an information booklet with advice on stateroom facilities, dining and black-tie dress code for formal nights. My partner Ken and I set off for Waverley Station, Edinburgh one Friday morning in June.
After a relaxing check-in over coffee, we are royally escorted by a kilted bagpiper to Platform 9. The gleaming maroon and cream beast of a train awaits us with a smart line-up of staff as train manager Michael Andrews welcomes us on board. We gather in the elegant Observation Car for ice-cold champagne, mixing among twenty-two guests from Australia, the United States, Europe and the UK. At 1.32pm precisely the train slowly departs past Princes Street Gardens. Our 660-mile, three-day house party has begun.
The Staterooms
Our twin-bedded Stateroom with en suite shower room offers superior comfort. Five State Cars accommodate sixteen twin and four single compartments, furnished in dark mahogany with rich green and crimson fabrics, ample wardrobe, drawer and dressing table space. Expect feather duvets, soft towels, fine soap, efficient heating and a cooling fan.
On this first afternoon it is time to settle in and relax in the Observation Car, Scottish country house style, amid green velvet sofas, tweed plaid armchairs, fresh flowers, watercolours and newspapers. Afternoon tea is served at 3.30pm: cucumber sandwiches, scones and chocolate cake. At the far end is the outside veranda, unique on a British train and the perfect vantage point for those landmark moments. The Host on this trip is Mike who points out scenic views, route maps and accompanies guests on daily excursions.
This itinerary takes the train up the West Highland Line to Mallaig, renowned as one of the most spectacular railway journeys in the world. Leaving the Clyde behind, the train skirts the curving shores of Loch Long then winds along the forested banks of Loch Lomond, the terrain wild and rugged as it climbs over 500 feet in just five miles towards Crianlarich.
Dining on Board
At 7.30pm, the sound of popping corks entices guests back to the Observation Car. Time for cocktails and canapés before a Formal Dinner. Working in an intimate galley, Head Chef Iain Murray and his team create an innovative showcase of modern Scottish cuisine: bread and croissants baked each day, regional specialities sourced en route. Inverawe smoked salmon, wild mushrooms, Aberdeen Angus beef and Mallaig monkfish. While stationed at Kyle of Lochalsh, a crate of prawns, oysters and langoustines is delivered to the train just 200 metres from the sea.
There are two charming dining cars, Raven and Victory, an original 1945 carriage featuring artistic marquetry, mahogany panelling and cushioned armchairs. Tables are laid with white linen, iconic Royal Scotsman bone china, silverware and crystal glasses. On the menu tonight: pan-fried scallops, Highland venison with red cabbage and rhubarb cheesecake. Wines are selected to complement each course. Later, coffee, cheese and drinks from the bar are served as guests are entertained with Gaelic songs, clarsach recital or a lively Scottish reel. Much later, back in our stateroom, beds are turned down, curtains drawn, towels folded.
The Highland Journey
The next morning over breakfast we feel we are getting to know our fellow passengers, sharing stories of railway journeys and world travel over a gourmet feast of porridge with a tot of whisky, bacon and eggs or an Arbroath smokie. We are now in the Highlands, travelling through majestic mountain glens, beside mirror-flat lochs, rivers and pine forests, watching for waterfalls, grazing blackface sheep and red deer. The stunning, ever-changing scenery draws guests out to the open-air observation platform.
Over the beautiful, bleak miles of Rannoch Moor, the locomotive races to its rhythmic rhythm across one of the last great wildernesses of Scotland. One of the highlights of the trip is crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct, best known today as the dramatic backdrop for the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter films. This magnificent Victorian bridge sweeps in an arc over 21 arches constructed 100 feet above the glen.
The Excursions
Every day there are meticulously organised private excursions. The maroon Royal Scotsman-crested coach meets the train to drive guests to historic castles, sporting estates, distilleries and islands. At Arisaig, Mike tells us tales of Bonnie Prince Charlie and points out the Small Isles and the distant Cuillin Hills on Skye. On Morar Beach, Julian unpacks a wicker picnic basket offering tea, coffee and whisky, while Duncan stands on the platform with a silver salver of champagne flutes on the return. This unique style of attentive hospitality is faultless.
On day three we take the coach and ferry to the Isle of Bute for an exclusive tour of Mount Stuart, the ancestral home of the Marquess of Bute with its magnificent collection of antiques and portraits. The sun is blissfully warm as we explore the exotic gardens, pinetum and avenue of lime trees.
The Verdict
"All I can say is the entire journey surpassed my every expectation. I have always wanted to see the bucolic scenery of Scotland, and that I did in spades. It was marvellous." Barbara, guest from the United States
Taking a journey on the Royal Scotsman is a dreamlike, epic adventure: cruising around the Highlands, cosseted and indulged like royalty. The word luxury is defined as "abundant provision of ease and pleasure." This is decadently luxurious, carefree travel at its best. Yes, the tariff is relatively expensive, but this world-class, unforgettable experience is, in a word, priceless.